Denver Sprinkler System Tips

Denver Sprinkler CompanyThings are really starting to heat up and it is easy to think that your sprinkler system is on cruise control.  It is a good idea to perform regular system checks not only to find any potential problems but to also familiarize yourself with how the system operates normally, giving you the opportunity to recognize subtle changes in performance.

We recommend checking the system at least once a month throughout the season.  When checking your irrigation system you want to make sure that all of the heads are adjusted correctly for distance and direction and that the spray pattern is not obstructed. Walking past the heads on each zone allows you not only to observe how the head is spraying but gives you an opportunity to notice slight leaks as you walk by that you may not have normally noticed. An area that stays wet around a sprinkler head indicates a seeping valve. A seeping valve is an electric control valve that will not close completely due to a small piece of debris lodged in the valve or possibly being damaged internally.

Drip irrigation is much more challenging to evaluate. You should walk each drip zone listening for leaks, looking for obvious breaks. Checking the vacuum breaker for leaks and opening valve box lids looking for potential leaks is also very important. Running through the programming on the clock and adjusting the station runtimes and the number of days a week the system runs is also a crucial part of your system check.

Sprinkler Company in Denver

We carry a LOT of sprinkler parts with us so we can quickly fix problems.

Checking your system regularly will also help you catch dry areas in your yard before they become a large problem. A regularly scheduled system check can potentially minimize excessive water bills due to mainline breaks or zones sticking on.

The irrigation professionals at Mountain High have the knowledge and expertise to fix your sprinkler system in Denver – we have a van packed full of sprinkler parts so we can fix most irrigation problems on the spot!  Call us at 303.232.0666 or send us an estimate request below:

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Colorado Lawn Weed Control

Colorado Lawn Weed ControlSo you have weeds in your lawn in Colorado. What do you do to keep them at bay?

The ideal time to deal with lawn weeds is in the late summer and early fall. The best way to have a weed free lawn is to have a healthy lawn.

Fertilization:
Healthy lawns are fertilized, particularly in the fall so that during the winter the grass has time to recover after our stressful hot, dry summers in Denver. Fertilization programs help the turf

Hand Dig or Mow weeds to prevent from going to seed:
In the spring and throughout the summer, it’s easy to hand dig those occasional weeds such as dandelions with a weeder (on right) as soon as you see them so they don’t go to seed and spread in your yard.  Mowing is also effective to limit seeds from spreading! For flower beds and gardens, a 3-4″ layer of mulch is very effective at controlling weeds.

Irrigation:
Healthy lawns also receive regular irrigation in the summer months into the fall. Make sure that your sprinkler/irrigation system is well-maintained and is sufficiently wetting the yard. Water longer, and less frequently, to help the lawn build deep roots.

Herbicides:
Herbicide treatments may be necessary in extremely weedy situations. First you want to  identify the weeds.

“A couple of hard frosts will kill some weed species, which means herbicide treatments are not only unnecessary, they’re wasteful. These weeds include broadleaf summer annuals such as purslane, knotweed and pigweed; and grassy summer annuals like crabgrass, goose grass, barnyard grass and foxtail.” ~ www.ext.colostate.edu

Mountain High Tree, Lawn & Landscape has figured out the most effective and environmentally-friendly methods of applying herbicides, and only if needed. If you signup for a lawn program, our lawn experts will diagnose your lawn and apply fertilizer and sometimes herbicides for weed control, if necessary, to help you maintain a healthy, green lawn that looks great even with our hot, dry weather. We also have sprinkler and irrigation techs that can help install, repair and maintain your sprinkler system so that it performs efficiently. Call us today at 303.232.0666 to get a free estimate.

Mosquito Repelling plants in Denver

Rosemary, Horsemint, Marigold, Lemon Balm, Ageratum, Cintronella, Catnip, Basil, Lemon Thyme and Lavender are all mosquito repellents… who knew?! We have some of these planted in our gardens, but maybe they all have to be planted together to work! We love all these plants for our landscapes as well as container gardens, so we’ll keep on planting and hoping that those pesky skeeters will stay at bay! Let us know if you’d like help with your landscape design and planting, we have a great landscape design team to help you design, build and take care of your landscape in Denver.

Denver Mosquito Repellent Plants
Image source: http://infinitylawnandgarden.com

 

Rings in lawns in Denver – Necrotic Ring Spot

necrotic-ring-spot

Necrotic Ring Spot in Denver

Because of the very wet spring and a strong summer warm-up, the Front Range is seeing heavier than normal NRS this year.

Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and annual bluegrass in Colorado. Other diseases can be confused with necrotic ring spot; therefore, an accurate assessment by a trained diagnostician is crucial to identifying the pathogen to properly address management of the disease. Management of this disease is difficult and requires an integrated approach utilizing cultural, chemical, and varietal control measures.

Symptoms:

Necrotic Ring Spot forms a circle of dead grass. In larger rings, the center will be green. In smaller circles, the grass will all be dead. The dieback results in a sunken depression. Grass can also be yellow or brown and appear in scattered patterns; however, where lots of rings are present, the lawn can appear to have a serpentine appearance of dead/sunken areas.  No leaf lesions are present on foliage infected with Necrotic Ring Spot. As the disease advances, roots, crowns, and lower stems will develop a black or brown discoloration.

Necrotic Ring Spot in Denver Lawn

In many cases, dandelions find the dead ring an easy place to get established, but they often appear weak or small when they do grow inside an NRS ring.

The following information comes from the University of Utah website: 

Necrotic ring spot is a disease that infects cool-season grasses, primarily Kentucky bluegrass. The disease is damaging to bluegrass because the pathogen will infect and kill the crowns and roots, resulting in a slow recovery. This pathogen belongs to a larger group of pathogens that cause “patch” diseases in turfgrass, although taxonomically they are not related. A patch is characterized by the blighted appearance of turf in a section of otherwise green turf. Patch diseases are difficult to diagnose in the field because some of the symptoms associated with this pathogen can also be caused by a variety of other stresses. For example, stress caused by poor or extreme soil moisture, or improper mowing will result in brown turfgrass in irregular shaped patches. Diagnosis can also be difficult because of the similarity of individual symptoms between different pathogens. 

The first symptoms are small, light green areas of turf. These areas will get larger and under drought conditions can go beyond 2-3 feet. Symptoms may also increase in size and severity with successive years. As the leaves are infected, they will turn a reddish brown to bronze color then weaken to a light straw color.

As you can see from the above excerpt, NRS is not easy to identify at early stages. In addition to the University of Utah information, many yards are hit with other fungi before NRS appear. It is not uncommon for a yard with Ascochyta or Melting Out to get rings weeks after the first disease is successfully treated.

Treatment options:

First and foremost, the first thing to understand when fighting NRS is there is no quick fix and no “cure”. However, there are a variety of treatment options.

To property combat NRS, a combination of chemical and cultural practices needs to be maintained.

1)  Slow release fertilizer program: Mountain High offers an Extended Release fertilizer program. This fertilizer breaks down slowly enough to feed the lawn without feeding the fungus.

2)  Two aerations per year: the Front Range has heavy soil compaction issues. Relieving this compaction not only strengthens the lawn, it also helps keep the NRS fungus in the soil and out of the crowns of the plants. Mountain High offers aeration services in the spring and fall (we do not recommend any aeration during the heat of the summer).

3)  Proper watering: proper watering prevents stress to lawn which in turn makes the lawn more resistant to NRS and other diseases. Watering deeply  (but less often) is much better than watering more often with less water. This gives the lawn a reason to develop deeper roots.

Overwatering can cause water damage to the roots while also bringing the NRS into the crowns of the plants.  Under watering puts the grass under a great deal of stress and makes it vulnerable to insects and diseases like NRS.

Mountain High recommends about 2.5 inches of water per week, spread out over three or four watering days. During really hot weather more water is needed.

4) Fungicides: NRS cannot be cured, but there are a few fungicide combinations available to ‘knock back’ the disease. Mountain High offers NRS fungicide treatments, but we recommend them only after fertilizer and cultural practices do not show enough improvement to the lawn.

As with any lawn problem, the lawn care professionals at Mountain High have the knowledge and expertise to provide the proper programs and treatment recommendations for NRS. Call us at 303.232.0666 or send us an estimate request below:

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Denver Tree Problems in July – Powdery Mildew, Fire Blight and Canker

Denver Tree Service Oak Leaf Blister

Oak Leaf Blister

Denver Tree Service Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew damage on Left, healthy on right

In the Denver metro area, the higher than normal humidity from the past two months combined with the ample amount of spring growth has resulted in high insect and disease levels. Leaf spot diseases, powdery mildew, fire blight, and cytospora canker have shown up all over town. As the weather conditions turn hot and dry, these diseases and their impact on plant health will become increasingly evident.

Distorted and wilted leaf tissue is fairly easy to identify. The less noticeable signs of various diseases can include gummosis oozing from bark crevices, small lesions on twig tissue, and desiccation of branch or twig tissue. Diseases that affect plants have a variety of treatment strategies, and we suggest you consult your Arborist to determine the correct treatment path for you.

Denver Tree Service Japanese Beetles

Treatments for Japanese beetles vary and include both “natural” and synthetic pesticide treatments. Japanese beetles are very difficult to control and their hosts include a huge variety of species.

The explosion of insect activity in May and June has been evident in the populations of mites, aphids, leaf hoppers, various scales, and most recently, Japanese beetles. We anticipate a very heavy population of Japanese beetles this season. The adult emergence was approximately 10 days earlier than last season, and our gardens will host these hungry pests through the early part of September.

Treatments for chronic pests like aphids, mites, and leaf hoppers are made through our IPM (Integrated Pest Management) visits. These visits include a property inspection of the ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as the appropriate treatments to reduce population levels. Let’s get your plant health care plan in place. Give us a call.

Mountain High Tree offers a full range of tree care services in the Denver area, including: Insect & Disease ControlSoil Injections for InsectsNatural Control Options. Call us at 303.232.0666 or send us an estimate request below if you would like to talk to us about your trees:

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Tree Topping – Not a good idea!

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Below is a great article from the Tree Care Industry Association about “tree topping” – a practice that we don’t recommend! Read on about why:

icecreamtree-300x385There are a lot of misconceptions about the appropriateness “tree topping,” a very controversial and damaging tree care practice. For the unfamiliar, tree topping is defined as “the removal of main tree branches to stubs in either a straight-across hedge fashion – or a complete delimbing of the tree, leaving only the main trunk or trunks of a tree.”

Many homeowners – and even some arborists – contend that tree topping is an effective way to stimulate growth, manage the size of the tree, and avoid the expenses of detailed pruning.

But how effective and safe is this practice, really? Is it worth it to cut corners? We don’t think so!

Tree Tropping: Fact vs. Fiction

Fiction: Topping rejuvenates the tree.

Fact: Tree topping usually removes so much of the tree’s crown that it can unbalance an older tree’s root-to-shoot ratio and temporarily cut off its ability to make food. When trees are topped, they will typically respond by readily growing new shoots. From that point forward they become high-maintenance. Most must be pruned regularly in an attempt to restore normal structure and growth. Pruning a tree annually is not environmentally sustainable or cost-effective. Your tree will also be more susceptible to disease and insect problems.

Fiction: The tree is too big and casts too much shade, and needs to be reduced by topping.

Fact: By their very nature, trees create shade, which means you really can’t plant anything underneath and expect full success. But in some instances, proper selective pruning, NOT topping, can reduce the bulk of a tree, letting in more light and allowing wind to pass through the tree. Proper pruning does not stimulate regrowth, and the tree will not respond as drastically as when topped or over-thinned. A qualified arborist is trained to understand which kinds of cuts to make (thinning cuts, not heading or topping cuts); he/she also knows when to stop. If problems caused by a tree cannot be solved through acceptable management practices, the tree should be removed and replaced with another species, or other plant material more appropriate for the site.

Fiction: Topping a tree is cheaper than having it pruned.

Fact: Initially, it might seem cheaper to cut the tree in half to get the result you are looking for. But over time the tree will require more frequent maintenance, and become a danger. Drastic topping cuts create opportunities for epicormic shoots on the remaining trunk to grow quickly into large, poorly attached branches, if the tree doesn’t just die outright. The potential for them to break off and cause a hazard to property or people is very high. From a legal standpoint, the owner or owners of such a tree may be responsible for damages if it can be proved they were negligent. Incorrect pruning can cause trees to become hazardous, and therefore is negligence.

Fiction: Topping is a time-tested way to prune a tree.

Fact: Topping is not a standard practice, and in fact is “outlawed” by national tree care standards. Topping has always been controversial. If someone tells you they have always done it that way, it’s a good bet they aren’t up to speed with the latest, scientific tree care methods.

Fiction: A banana split with all the toppings is considered a serving of fruit.

Fact: We may not know diets, but we do know trees. Topping is for ice cream, not trees.

Article source: http://tcia.org

Mountain High Tree offers a full range of tree care services in the Denver area, including: Trimming Trees & ShrubsTree & Shrub Removal,
Stump Grinding, Tree Planting ServicesConstruction Damage MitigationTree & Shrub FertilizationSupplemental Tree WateringInsect & Disease Control,
Soil Injections for InsectsNatural Control Options.

Call us at 303.232.0666 or send us an estimate request if you would like to talk to us about your trees:
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New Sod Care in Denver

new-sod-careSo you just had sod installed on your lawn, here are our tips on how to best take care of your new sod so that it stays healthy and establishes in your lawn:

Sod Care – First 2 Weeks:
The key to establishing new sod is to keep it properly watered for the first month. Immediately after installing sod, water thoroughly making it spongy to the step. The new sod should be kept thoroughly wet to a depth of 4″ to 6″ and watered 3 to 5 times a day during the first 7 to 14 days depending on season. Lift a corner of the sod to determine the depth of moisture. For the first week, it is very important to keep the new sod damp. During this time stay off the sod so it can take root and you do not sink in and leave depressions from your foot steps. During hot weather, sprinklers should run several times a day so the new sod never dries out. If allowed to dry out the sod will shrink, brown and can die. The roots of your new sod will penetrate the soil faster and root down sooner if properly watered. At the end of week 2, dry up the yard enough so you can mow.

Sod Care - Weeks 3 & 4:
The following 2 weeks are used to transition from frequent daily watering to fewer cycles per day and increase the number of days between watering. During week 3, start reducing watering to 1-3 times per day and skip a day between watering if new sod is not drying out. By week 4, water 1-2 times every other day. After week 4, your new yard should be ready to go 2-3 days between watering. Water your lawn in the evening, night and early morning when less evaporation occurs. To reduce run-off on hills and promote deep root growth, reduce watering times in half. One hour later, run the irrigation cycle again and apply the rest of the water. This allows the water to soak into heavy soils.

Rest of the Season:
Your new lawn will need more water the fist growing season and especially the first 6 months. As it roots deeper over the course of a year, it will need less water. If you lawn looks dry, it probably needs watering. The key to new sod care during this time is deep watering less frequent. This will help the roots grow down and develop a deep root system that uses less water. It is OK after the first two months to stress your lawn a little. This means let your yard dry out a bit and when you see signs of stress starting to appear, then water. This will also allow you to fine tune the sprinkler system and adjust heads for proper coverage and change nozzles for more or less water in certain spots.

Mowing New SodFirst Mowing:
Your new lawn should be mowed at the end of week 2 or if you lawn exceeds 3 1/2″ tall. Back off the water so the turf is dry to the touch and firm enough to walk on with out sinking in. If your new lawn reaches over 3 1/2″, mow off a third of the length even if it has not been two weeks. Do not cut shorter than 2″ for the first few times you mow. Exercise caution the first time you mow so you do not damage or pull up the sod. If some of the sod does move around, don’t worry. Just put it back in place and it will grow in.

Watering:
Watering your established lawn varies depending on the time of year, weather, sun, shade, slope, wind and temperatures. Watering uniformly, deeply and infrequently will help keep your lawn healthy. Judgment and common sense are important in determining when your yard needs water. A healthy, deep rooted lawn attained through less frequent, deep irrigation, often withstands minor drought better than an over-watered lawn. It is important to water if your lawn if it dries out and becomes drought-stressed between waterings. The following are signs your lawn needs watering:

• 1st Stage — Grass blades turn bluish gray in color
• 2nd Stage — Footprints left when walked on
• 3rd Stage — Grass blades turn straw color

If any of these stages start to appear in your yard, it needs water. You can also use a screwdriver to determine how much moisture in your soil profile. If the screwdriver goes in easy, it should have good moisture. If it is hard to push it into the yard, your lawn may be dry. During times of extreme summer heat, your established lawn may need to be watered 3 to 4 times a week. Also, a lawn growing in sandy soil will need to be irrigated more often with smaller amounts of water. Sandy soils hold little plant-available moisture. Turf growing in a clay soil can be irrigated less frequently.

watering-lawn-denver

Best Time To Water?
The most efficient time to water is late evening, after 9 p.m. and early morning before 5 a.m.. It generally is less windy, cooler and more humid at this time, resulting in less evaporation and more efficient use of water. Water pressure is generally better and this results in optimal distribution patterns. Watering at night does not encourage disease development in Colorado due to the dry climate.

Other Watering Tips
With most soils, do not apply all the water in one cycle or in a short period of time. If water is applied too quickly, it will often run off turf areas due to slopes, compaction, heavy clay soils and thatch. In these cases, it is more effective to apply half the water in two back to back irrigations cycles. This allows water to soak into the soil rather than run off. Core cultivation, aeration can resolve some infiltration problems by reducing thatch and reducing compaction.

Mowing
Mow cool season grasses 1.75” to 3” tall when the turf is dry to the touch with a sharp blade. A dull mower blade will shred and fray leaf blades instead of cutting them cleanly. The result is a brown, unattractive lawn. Mow often enough so no more than 1/3 of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If your mowing height is 2 inches, mow the grass when it is 3 inches tall. You may have to mow a healthy bluegrass or fescue lawn every three to four days during ideal growing conditions. If weather or other factors keep you from mowing your lawn, raise the height of cut to avoid cutting too much off at one time. Cut the grass again a few days later at the normal mowing height. Pick up the clippings if they form clumps and are matting down and smothering your lawn.

During routine mowings, let the grass clippings fall back onto the lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic matter for the lawn. Mulching mowers can do this easily. Side-discharge rotary mowers also distribute clippings effectively if the lawn is mowed at the proper frequency. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation.

Fertilizer
To supply proper nutrition for your lawn, we suggest applying three to four applications of fertilizer per year. Depending on the weather, these applications should be made in March, May, July, and September. How often and what type of fertilizer you use will determine the health of your lawn. If you are watering properly but your lawn is thin, lighter green in color or is not growing well, your lawn needs to be fertilized. We suggest applying a high analysis fertilizer when your lawn needs a boost. If your lawn is thick and healthy use a slow release fertilizer.

High analysis fertilizers green up you lawn quickly, promote top growth and root development. Slow release fertilizers work slower and release nutrients over a longer period of time. Organic fertilizers work even slower because the organic components must break down before the plant can utilize them. Also, use a fertilizer that is formulated for Colorado soils and our dry climate. We have been applying fertilizers on Colorado lawns for over 40 years. With a minimal amount of work, your lawn will look great and stay healthy.

Mountain High Tree offers full Lawn Programs for ongoing fertilization and weed control. Call us at 303.232.0666 or send us an estimate request if you would like to talk to us about your lawn:
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Denver Lawn Seeding Watering & Care

Overseeding Lawn in DenverWhen Mountain High Tree, Lawn and Landscape apply seed for lawns, we first aerate the areas to be seeded and then apply the seed. In heavily damaged areas, additional spot seeding may be necessary. Spring and fall are the prime times to seed when temperatures are cooler.

Here are our recommendations for newly seeded lawns:

The most important part of caring for a newly seeded lawn is water.
Seeds will not sprout without decent water and new seedlings can quickly dry out and die with the low humidity we have in Colorado. Because of this, watering on a consistent basis is critical. Keeping the soil damp for 21 to 28 days is the only way to get seed to fully establish. If you discontinue with consistent watering too soon, you will starve the plant. For a seedling, the goal is to keep it moist at all times while using caution in not drowning the young plant by over watering.

Homeowner care of newly seeded areas:
Please follow these guidelines to make the seeding successful while keeping your yard healthy:

  • Water TWO TIMES daily with each watering lasting ten minutes. The germinating seed needs constant moisture but not a lot of water. 
  • If temperatures increase above 85 degrees or we experience windy days it may require an additional watering session during the day to keep the seed and soil moist.
  • Once per week do a deeper watering so your established lawn continues to maintain good root depth.
  • Do not rake up the aeration plugs. They will break down naturally. Raking out the plugs will disturb the seed and will prevent the plugs from adding valuable micro-nutrients to the soil.
  • When the seeded areas are a half inch tall you can reduce watering but stay on your regular watering schedule. If the weather turns hot and dry, an extra watering may still be needed.
  • Do not allow foot or pet traffic over seedlings.
  • When seedlings are two inches tall you can start mowing again. Mow at the highest setting for the first couple of cuttings then reduce height in increments so you do not remove too much of the blade. Remember, optimal mowing height is two and a half to three inches.
  • DO NOT use weed control in the seeded areas for a minimum of three weeks after the seed germinates. Mountain High’s technicians will not apply weed control in newly seeded areas if you have a program with us.

Please Call Us With Any Questions You May Have!

Mountain High Tree, Lawn & Landscape Company
(303) 232-0666

Watering Instructions for newly planted Trees & Shrubs in Colorado

Tree Planting Service Denver

Newly planted trees and shrubs require special attention after planting and through the first two years, especially in our hot and dry climate in Colorado.

*A standard irrigation system will not provide adequate water, making supplemental watering essential.*

Mountain High Tree Lawn & Landscape  will water in your new trees and shrubs on the day they are planted and on subsequent days when necessary for the duration of your project. Closely monitor your new plants and look for anything unusual in appearance including wilting leaves, drooping branches, or discoloration.

Tree Planting Service Denver*If you do notice anything unusual, contact your sales representative immediately. Waiting to contact your sales representative until after the plant dies can void your warranty!*

After the project is completed, we recommend you take the following action:

Watering New Trees:

  • For the first 6 to 8 weeks, water the tree once per week by either filling up the well and allowing the water to saturate into the ground, or keeping the hose on a slow trickle for roughly 30 minutes. In excessively warm temperatures, water twice per week.
  • After the first eight 8 weeks and until the end of the growing season, water the tree once or twice per month by either filling up the well twice or keeping the hose on a slow trickle for roughly 1 hour.

Watering New Shrubs
(assuming there is an automatic irrigation system set to a proper watering schedule):

  • For the first 3 to 4 weeks, water the shrub gently from above (a watering wand or hose nozzle with a shower’ setting is recommended) for 2-3 minutes until the area under the shrub is saturated.
  • After the first month through the end of the growing season, check the soil periodically and water in the same manner as necessary.

Too much water deprives the root system of oxygen and can be just as harmful as not enough water, so be careful not to over-water. As a general guideline, dig down around the ball of the tree or shrub and check the soil about 4-6” down. If you find the soil is too dry to form a ball when squeezed, it needs to be watered. With practice, you will learn to anticipate when your new trees and shrubs need water.

*Don’t forget to mist the leaves or needles of your new trees periodically. They will also take in moisture, especially when hot and dry conditions exist.*

Denver Lawn Care Tips for Summer

Caring for your lawn in Denver’s hot, arid climate is an ongoing process! Here are some good tips to help keep your lawn as healthy as possible during these hot summer months:

Watering:
Make sure your sprinklers or irrigation system gives established bluegrass lawns about 1 ½” of precipitation a week. Avoid water waste by monitoring how much water your sprinkler puts out and by setting your sprinkler to run in a way that avoids runoff away from the lawn. Let us know if you’d like us to come out and tune up your irrigation system!

Denver Lawn ServiceMowing:
Raise your mowing height on cool season turf lawns (like bluegrass) to 3” and continue to mow as needed removing only 1/3 of the blade at each mowing. Keep in mind, a very short lawn is under a great deal of stress all the time. This makes it vulnerable to attack from insects, weeds and fungi.

NOTE: Remove no more than 1/3 of total length on any one cutting. If grass gets very long, remove grass in stages with a two to three day time span between cuttings to prevent stress.

Lawn Care in DenverChange it up when you Mow!
Grass tends to grow in the direction that it is cut, so to prevent your lawn from appearing to lean one way or the other,  vary your mowing direction each time. This will keep your grass looking straighter as well as preventing a washboard effect. Furthermore, mowing in different directions tends to cause a different angle of cut which is better for the grass. To make sure that you mow the entire lawn, overlap each pass. Mowing the lawn soon after it has been watered will cause the grass to stick to the mower blades and clog the mower, and can spread disease. Wait until the grass blades have had time to dry before mowing.

Though we don’t offer mowing services, we do everything else to keep your lawn healthy and green, including lawn fertilizationover-seedingaerationweed controlsprinkler system design and installationsprinkler repairsprinkler turn on and turn offswinterization, and more.

View our Lawn Care Services here.